Published at Wednesday, November 21st 2018. by Cathy Garrett in Kitchen Backsplash.
Let's start up with footage of what this kitchen looked like before, so the first thing you're going to do is measure your space to calculate the number of square feet, you're going to need it's a good idea to get a few square feet over your estimate, just Because you're going to be cutting a lot of the tiles individually later on, here's a back plus, we bought a nice stainless steel, subway tile and, yes, we underestimated the first time and ended up having to order like six extra tiles, which held up the project, not Fun don't be like us also. Now is a good time to consider replacing your outlets so that they match.
We got these super cool, stainless steel wall plates and switches and plugs and they're all in the same color, and it is spectacular next make sure you have a smooth surface to work on. We were about to get something called a hardy backer, which is super helpful and a lot of people use it, but it wouldn't have worked for us because it would have made the backsplash pop out further than the granite edge. So we went with the other option. Standing the wall down to eliminate those unnecessary bumps - oh yeah, don't forget to protect the area by taping down some paper for easier cleanup next you're going to take a level and draw out a straight line all the way across the wall.
This will serve as your guide to finish up the edges by an l-shaped channel, cut it to size. This is a grinder and it's made with diamond black and drill it into the wall. Where you want your edges to be now, it's time to start cutting the tile, we rented a wet saw from Home Depot to get that job done if you're efficient with your cutting, you probably only need to rent this for a few hours. You'll have to cut a few edges straight and then the tedious part is figuring out where you'll need to make space for the outlet. Now we're going to attach the tiles with something called thin set and we're using a notched trowel to distribute everything evenly.
This tile adhesive dries pretty quickly once it's spread out, so we're doing one section at a time to push all the tiles in evenly press them down with a rubber float. Here's my contribution make sure all the tiles are as straight as you can make them every once in a while you're going to probably want to step back and survey the situation mark any crooked tiles, with a piece of tape, and then you can shift them slightly By using these little rubber spacers at the end, you will have to fill in all the little gaps on the edges and around the outlets with individual tiles that need to be sliced down to size.
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